Ashdown Summer Cruise to Holland 2003

I had eagerly signed up for the cruise, looking forward to developing my sailing skills through a concentrated period of experience but as the date of departure approached, several questions began to surface in my mind. What would it be like to be closeted with five other people in compact quarters for three weeks? How cohesive would a flotilla be comprising Summer Song, Fizzgig and Lucrece and could it survive the inherent competitive streak in all yacht skippers? Would my physical stamina be adequate to withstand short nights, early starts and long passage days? Before the cruise began, I knew little about the Dutch canal system, believing them to be similar but perhaps wider and straighter than UK canals. However, on all counts, I was in for a series of pleasant surprises.

We assembled at Chichester marina on Friday evening, 25 July. As I approached Summer Song along the pontoon I was greeted by the sight of Dave Groves stripped to the waist and hanging in a boson's chair halfway up her mast, fixing pennant lines and the steaming light - very brave, despite the warm afternoon sun.

From Chichester Summer Song's crew comprised Pam, as Skipper - naturally - David Bennet, Dave Groves and myself. We enjoyed our first flotilla dinner at Dell Quay and slipped moorings early on Saturday heading for Eastbourne. The weather was initially overcast, developing into drizzle at midday and heavy rain in the afternoon, at which time the decision was taken to spend the night in Brighton rather than endure the unpleasant conditions any longer. Nevertheless we were able to sail the whole of the leg with a south westerly pushing us along at a reasonable pace. Brighton marina was somewhat cold and inhospitable in the rain and our arrival was somewhat tarnished by the numerous attempts to persuade the marina office to connect us to mains power. Mike Duke joined the boat in the evening and dined on board, together with Gail who had driven him down.

The following day we headed for Eastbourne and again had a good downwind sail. By afternoon the skies had cleared and we enjoyed brilliant warm sunshine. A minor drama occurred when the foresail tack shackle broke open, causing the base of the sail to tear. We removed the sail in order to avoid further damage and erected a working jib sail in its place. Although this was smaller, it served its purpose until Pam could carry out emergency repairs at Eastbourne. Dinner on Summer Song was followed by drinks on Fizzgig to celebrate John Alden's Birthday (60?) (not quite ed). At the conclusion of a passionate debate on the relative characteristics and merits of the sexes (Fizzgig's crew comprised 3 females and 3 males), somebody torpedoed the previously agreed destination for the following day by drawing attention to the restricted access to Calais marina - between HW - 2 and HW + 1. After heated discussion of the options - moor on a buoy outside Calais, visit Dover or Boulogne - the decision was taken to sail to Boulogne.

We slipped out of Eastbourne through the 07.00 lock to maximise use of the fair tide and learnt to our surprise that Fizzgig and Lucrece had already left. It was a bright sunny day and we enjoyed a wonderful sail across the Channel with a W/SW wind, force 5 and achieved 7+ knots. The sea was moderate with little traffic in the shipping lanes which we were able to cross at right angles without diversion, arriving in Boulogne marina at 16.00. Dinner on board was prefaced by champagne and oysters to celebrate the crew's first Channel crossing east of the meridian and followed by further discussion amongst skippers regarding the next day's destination and passage plan.

All three boats left Boulogne together the following morning, heading for Nieuwpoort in some semblance of a flotilla. Later Fizzgig and Lucrece set course out to sea and disappeared into the mist but we stayed closer to the coast in an attempt to maximise the fair tide. A force 4/5 SW wind gave us a good downwind speed and the navigation was challenging, involving many course changes around drying banks and wrecks off Dunkirk. We entered the Belgian Air Force Yacht Club marina close to low tide and, despite assurances from the Marina office on depth of water, Summer Song touched bottom as she entered the assigned berth. Lucrece arrived an hour later and bottomed in the fairway before she could reach her berth. Fizzgig arrived a further one and a half hours later and also bottomed but John, after surveying the situation, applied full throttle and, guided by many hands on adjacent boats and the pontoon, powered into the berth. Lucrece followed soon after.

It was somewhat ironic that after a day of dodging sandbanks, wrecks and other obstructions, all boats should run aground in the marina!

The next leg of our passage took us from Nieuwpoort to Breskens with an 11.00 departure, once again to capitalise on the fair tide. Again we are fortunate to be sailing downwind, goose winged to maximise sail area. Summer Song's cruising chute was deployed for the first time (under Pam's ownership) and noticeably enhanced our speed. We soon overhauled Fizzgig and Lucrece but keeping the boat on course and chute full of wind required considerable skill and concentration. A loud drumming on the hull, indicating something was amiss abruptly terminated our elation. An inspection revealed that the cruising chute lazy sheet had slipped overboard and lodged either on the keel, prop or rudder and could not be pulled back on deck.

In response to Pam's VHF call John Alden suggested checking whether, with the engine in neutral, the prop shaft would revolve. David B checked and confirmed that it would not, indicating that the rope was wound around the prop, but after some physical persuasion he succeeded in turning and freeing it. The rope cutter appeared to have done its job! We were then able to pull the sheet back on board, albeit with one very severed end. Subsequent measurement confirmed its length at 14 metres rather than its original 20. Where were the missing 6 metres - still around the prop or on the bottom? Before entering Breskens Pam started the engine to enable us to manoeuvre and lower the mainsail and everything seemed to be operating satisfactorily, which was a great relief to all on board in view of the tidal race across the harbour entrance. However, Pam reported a grinding noise from the prop and, once moored on the visitor pontoon in line with Fizzgig and Lucrece who arrived just before us, John suggested use of his periscope to check the propeller. The crews of all three boats assembled together, huddled first on the port side and then on the bow of Summer Song to lift her stern as high and as close to the pontoon as possible for inspection of the prop. This confirmed that a length of the sheet remained around it. Fortunately Janny and John Taylor identified a group of teenagers on a training cruise who had just cleared a plastic bag from the bow thruster on another yacht in the marina and who were willing, for a few euros, to attempt to remove the rope. With all crews once again assembled on the bow, two lads dived in and triumphantly brought half a meter of very frayed rope to the surface, to cheers all around and much relief. Somebody, probably John Taylor, has a few interesting photographs recording the whole event. An action-packed day but despite the drama we had enjoyed another great day's sailing and 30 miles in the log.

After the previous day's excitement, the next leg of our passage was relatively relaxed and short - just 7 miles from Breskens to Middleburg. We crossed the Antwerp shipping channel to Vlissingen and entered the Dutch canal system - wider and straighter than UK canals, lined with avenues of trees, clusters of wind turbines (the modern Dutch windmill), dykes and tow paths which are used now by joggers and cyclists. Low bridges carry roads, railways and footpaths across the canals and open either by swinging or lifting to allow both commercial and leisure craft to pass. Locks control and reconcile differing water levels between the sea, inland lakes and canals. Waiting for bridges and locks to open ensured a very slow and mellow pace of life on the water.

Middleburg marina spreads along two canals in the town centre, accessed by opening bridges and controlled by a friendly Harbour Master responsible for berthing and operating the bridges. The inland marinas were extremely busy and rafting became our normal method of mooring. The heads were accommodated in one of the charming quayside houses that lined the canal. Beers in the cockpit, whilst enjoying the afternoon sun, fuelled reflection on the cruise so far. We had been fortunate enough to sail virtually the whole trip from Chichester to Middelburg, a distance of just over 200 miles, with a following wind and near perfect conditions, with the exception of the first day. Our crew had gelled together extremely well and the various dramas had provided invaluable experience.

All three boats left Middleburg when the bridges opened at 10.30 a.m. and motored down the Door Walcheren canal and out into the Veerse Meer. We sailed most of the way at a leisurely 2-3 knots with occasional short engine bursts when the wind disappeared. Channel markers on the inland waterways took some time to adjust to because, with little tide, there is no obvious direction of passage. The orientation of red and green buoys and markers change from channel to channel requiring constant chart observation and a close look out. Some stretches made Chichester Harbour seem rather straightforward! We also encountered our first red and green buoys marking channel confluences and divisions. What could be more pleasant than majestically cruising along beautiful inland waterways under blue skies and brilliant sunshine, waving regally at passing helmsmen and crew as they passed in the opposite direction? We were either pleasantly surprised or shocked at the naturalists amongst them. Isn't it amazing what the sun does to some people!

It seemed as if everybody wanted to visit Goes, our next port of call. We joined a long queue waiting for the final bridge to lift and allow access to the two marinas serving the town. The first was full so we joined a line of boats entering the inner harbour situated at the centre of town. It was already crammed but we were able to raft alongside Fizzgig and other yachts. We received welcome assistance from two adjacent Dutch boats who, after searching their lockers, found a power extension lead to enable us to reach the nearest pontoon socket. We were struck by the helpfulness and friendly attitude of the Dutch people, consistent throughout our visit, from everybody we encountered - not just fellow yachtsmen. We enjoyed dinner at a quayside restaurant but our night's sleep was disturbed by a rowdy 03.00 a.m. turnout from the adjacent bars, echoing around the buildings enclosing the tiny harbour.

Saturday 2 August was our first layover day and what better place to enjoy it than Goes. The weather was perfect and the temperature continued to rise. Within the harbour the water was as flat as glass, containing perfect reflections of the surrounding buildings and sky above. The light was beautifully clear and sharp, reminiscent of Greece - a painter's dream!

On Sunday we left Goes for Zeirikzee and were once again part of a large armada of boats waiting to pass under the bridges which control access to the waterways. It was ideal cruising weather, although the wind was not best positioned for our course to pass through the lifting section of Zeelandbrug. This low, elegant bridge, several kilometres long, laces across the horizon and is one of several modern engineering structures which form part of the extensive flood defences and new Zeeland infrastructure. The weather continued to be very hot, with a very welcome cool breeze on the water, only the occasional cloud in the sky and brilliant, clear visibility. After a picnic lunch at anchor, we made an early entry into Zeirikzee marina and rafted alongside Fizzgig and Lucrece. This is another very attractive town, dominated by a tall tower, visible for miles around and built as the first stage of a grand church which unfortunately was never completed due to lack of funds.

In the historic towns we visited, each building has its own individual personality, expressed through windows of varying shapes, sizes and patterns, stepped gable walls and steeply pitched roofs. Despite this variety, the streets achieve a calm unity by the use of a limited palette of materials - red brick, stone, pantiles and painted plaster. The buildings are all bright, cheerful and well maintained. The following morning we made another delightfully lazy passage, this time to Bruinisse passing back through the Zeelandbrug into Oosterschelde and motoring to the Grevelingensluis. It was another very hot day with the sun glistening on the mirror-like water. The shoreline, wind turbines and bridge slowly disappeared into the haze.

It is amazing to observe how many yacht skippers, even when on vacation, seem compelled to be first into locks and through bridges. On arrival at a closed lock or bridge most boats moor in rafts at waiting pontoons. Some, however, hover around the entrance or hang back awaiting the green light to enter the lock or pass through the bridge. As soon as this appears, they surge forward leaving those who have moored to follow. Unfortunately those who arrive first enter last. There is no custom of queuing in the British sense. Once inside there is usually a great atmosphere of camaraderie although we did experience the occasional consternation when protruding ensigns or other fittings were at risk from wayward boats. Bow and stern thrusters snarled and squirted to keep the large gin palaces in line, unfortunately disrupting the general air of tranquillity. It was amusing to observe, out of pity rather than envy, the antics of the smartly dressed crews on many of the large motor cruisers, in some cases stretching to full length gloves to handle the ropes! We had numerous interesting conversations with yachties of different nationalities about their boats, where they had been, where they were going and of course, the fabulous weather, which the Dutch emphasised was unusually good. Bruinnisse was something of a disappointment after the historic towns we had visited being more suburban and somewhat characterless.

On Tuesday we had a gentle sail to Port Zeelande with lunch at anchor off Parrdenplast. Mike, Pam and I swam off the boat, dodging jellyfish and a pair of swans begging for food. Port Zeelande is a new 'manufactured' holiday centre in mediterranean style with pastel coloured holiday apartments, supermarket and food court. The smart new marina was a sales centre for motor yachts and consequently filled with them. Dinner was a beach BBQ. All crews hiked to the seaward side of the dyke which separates the Grevelingen from the North Sea. Disposable BBQ's, one from each boat, were set up and lit on the waters edge and soon the enticing aromas of steaks, kebabs, pork chops and, later, bananas were wafting across the beach. It was a very enjoyable meal, if slightly competitive - who was cooking first? Who was eating first?

We left Port Zeelande relatively early the following day to return down the Grevelingen and sailed leisurely towards Yerseke, our destination for the evening. We anchored for lunch with adequate depth, according to the chart but the depth sounder was flashing between 1.6 and 3.8 and it was considered prudent to move further out. We attempted to, but grounded on a rogue sandbank running counter to the charted contours. Attempts to motor clear and resetting the anchor on a longer line to pull Summer Song off the bank both failed. Examination of the tide tables revealed low water one and a half hours later, so we decided to relax, have lunch and wait for the tide to rise. Pam took the opportunity to clean the hull below the waterline by walking around the perimeter of the boat. Eventually the boat floated clear and we made a quick motor-powered dash to Yerseke, arriving just in time for champagne on Fizzgig and dinner in town with all crew members to celebrate Pam and David's Ruby wedding anniversary.

Pam and David left Summer Song at Yerseke to return to UK for their family celebration leaving just four of us on board for the passage to Veere. The Verse Meer was a beautiful waterway with thousands enjoying holidays in marinas, camping and caravanning sites along its banks under blue skies and in brilliant sunshine. On the water we again had a gentle breeze to keep us cool and enjoyed another lunch at anchor amongst the wooded islands dotted between channels. The entry to Veere is sudden and dramatic. A narrow entrance between lines of wooden piles turns sharply to port and leads directly into the tiny harbour which, when we arrived at mid afternoon, was already very busy. After manoeuvring in the tight turning basin we rafted out close to Fizzgig and Lucrece and were joined soon after by other boats extending the raft further into the rapidly narrowing access channel. We enjoyed welcoming cool beers at a quayside bar, watched the sun sink slowly below the skyline and reflections of boats and buildings in the calm water but visibility across the Meer and along the harbour were suddenly reduced by sea fog. The sun disappeared and the temperature dropped dramatically. We were in shock and returned hastily to the boat for slacks and fleeces before we ate dinner. The Town Hall bells and floodlit spire were quite eerie in the fog.

The fog had cleared overnight and it was now possible to see and appreciate the buildings and cobbled streets. They varied in scale from intimate single storey houses to the grandeur of the Town Hall. The larger buildings had brightly painted window shutters bearing geometric heraldic designs and spikes on all horizontal surfaces to deter roosting pigeons. We slipped moorings under an overcast sky - the first morning without sun for days - wrapped in fleeces against the unfamiliarly low temperature. We had the water virtually to ourselves and a brisk competitive sail with Fizzgig to the northern end of the Meer. We motored back along the Walcheren canal to Middleburg, mooring alongside Fizzgig and Lucrece who, as usual, arrived before us. The sun eventually struggled through the cloud cover to produce a bright and pleasant evening. Over dinner on board, we discussed our lock waiting, entering, mooring and exit routine and all felt we had established a fairly polished standard, having learned from the Dutch how to use boathooks to pull boats into the side, pass lines over bollards and fend off bobbing and weaving boats around us.

Saturday 9 August was our second layover, this time in Middleburg, and crew change day. Gail left Summer Song to catch the train to Schipol and the plane home to the UK. Whilst relaxing and drinking a few more beers in the sun-drenched cockpit, we discussed the large number of very tall people in Holland. It seems as if half the population is blonde, tanned and over 2 metres high. There are also a huge number of bicycles - high and elegant with large wheels, using designated cycle paths between roads and pavements. Woe betide any pedestrian who strays into or crosses these paths without due care and attention! Everybody cycles whenever they can - some carry children in seats on the crossbar or behind the saddle and sometimes tow kiddie trailers as well. It must be the flat terrain and dedicated routes that makes cycling so attractive and the town centres relatively car free.

On Sunday Lucrece slipped early for the short passage to Vlissingen from the inside of the raft, forcing an instructive exercise in releasing a boat and re-securing the remainder of the raft. We left an hour later and had a lazy afternoon in Vlissingen touring the town centre and watching the pilot boats speeding out into the shipping channel to meet ships entering or leaving Antwerp.

Monday was the first leg of our passage back to the UK and we prepared for Pam's arrival back on board.

(The journey home will be published in the next Log. Ed)